PATTERN 7645 PATTERN PIECES: A A A A B B B B
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
Front 1x Back 1x Strip / Neck edge 1x Strip / Armhole edge 2x Front 1x Back 1x Strip / Neck edge 1x Strip / Armhole edge 2x
Cutting from a single layer of fabric: First pin all pattern pieces to the fabric or trace around all pattern pieces onto the fabric before you begin cutting out the fabric pieces. Spread out fabric, right side facing up. To cut the front and back pieces from a single layer of fabric, pin each paper pattern piece to the right side of the fabric. Trace around outer edges onto fabric and mark fold edge with straight pins. Turn pattern piece over along marked FOLD and pin to fabric again. Draw seam and hem allowances along edges of paper pattern pieces and around edges of marked outline. Cut out fabric pieces along these lines.
=
MARKING
THE CUTTING LAYOUTS ARE ON THE PATTERN SHEET PREPARING PATTERN PIECES Choose your size according to the Burda measurement chart: dresses, blouses, jackets, and coats according to your bust measurement and pants and skirts according to your hip measurement. Adjust the pattern pieces, if necessary, by adding or subtracting the number of inches (cm) that your measurements differ from the measurements given in the Burda chart.
AB Before you remove the pattern pieces from the fabric, you should transfer the pattern outlines (seam and hem lines) and all important lines and markings from the pattern pieces to the fabric pieces: e.g. the dart lines and seam marks. It is easiest to transfer markings using BURDA dress-maker's carbon paper and a tracing wheel (see instructions included with paper) or using pins and tailor's chalk.
AB SEWING Cut out the following pattern pieces in the required size: for the TOP, view A, pieces 1 to 4 and for the TOP, view B, pieces 5 to 8.
LENGTHENING OR SHORTENING PATTERN Our pattern is calculated for a height of 5 feet, 6 inches (168 cm). If you are taller or shorter, you may adjust the pattern to fit your size at the lines marked "lengthen or shorten here". This ensures proper fit.
= Make sure that you adjust all pieces of one model by the same amount at the same lines. How to lengthen or shorten pattern pieces: Cut pattern pieces along marked lines. To lengthen, slide the two halves of the pattern piece as far apart as necessary. To shorten, overlap the two halves of the pattern piece as far as necessary. Even out side edges.
CUTTING FOLD (– – – – – –) means: Here is the center of a pattern piece, but in no case a cut edge or a seam. The piece should be cut double, with the fold line forming the center line. Pattern pieces that are outlined with a broken line in the cutting layout are to be placed face down on the fabric.
AB The cutting layouts on the pattern sheet show how the pattern pieces should be placed on the fabric. SEAM AND HEM ALLOWANCES must be added: 15⁄8" (4 cm) for hem and 5⁄8" (1.5 cm) at all other seams and edges, except on pieces 3, 4, 7, and 8 (seam allowances are already included). Cutting from a double layer of fabric: Fold fabric in half lengthwise so that one selvage lies on the other and the right side is facing in. Pin pattern pieces to wrong side of the fabric as shown in the cutting layout. Draw seam and hem allowances along edges of paper pattern pieces. Cut out fabric pieces along these lines. For 55" (140 cm) wide fabric, fold the selvages to the center of the fabric, right side facing in. This results in two fold edges to which the pattern pieces for the front and back can be pinned.
When sewing pieces together, right sides of fabric should be facing. Tips for working with stretch fabrics You will have the best results if you use a serger to stitch seams on stretch fabrics. The seams remain very elastic and don't tear during wearing. If you don't have a serger, stitch seams with a stretch stitch or with a narrow zigzag stitch. Make sure that the thread tension is not set too tight. Use a special machine needle for stitching jersey fabrics. This type of needle has a tip which won't damage the fabric.
1 Use a machine TWIN NEEDLE for stitching turned up edges (for example, at hem). With this needle, you sew with straight stitch from the right side of the fabric using two upper threads and one bobbin thread. The bobbin thread forms zigzag stitches. This ensures that the fabric doesn't stretch during stitching and that the seam remains elastic. AB TOP Bust darts
2
Fold front piece so that lines of each dart meet, right side facing in. Baste bust darts and stitch each dart from edge toward point. Knot threads at points of darts. Press darts down. Shoulder seams
3 Lay front piece on back piece, right sides facing. Baste shoulder seams, matching seam numbers (A 1, B 3). For view A, ease each back shoulder edge from neck edge to .. Stitch shoulder seams. Illustration shows view A. Trim seam allowances. Finish edges of allowances together and press toward back. A Neck edge / Fabric strips Fold fabric strip (piece 3) in half lengthwise, wrong side facing in. Press. Mark center of strip with a straight pin. = Trim allowance on neck edge to 3⁄8" (1 cm) wide.
4
Baste strip to neck edge, right sides facing. The open edges of strip lie on seam allowance of neck edge and the pin must meet center front. Turn ends of strip under at center back. Stitch strip to neck edge, stitching 3⁄8" (1 cm) from edges. Trim seam allowances and clip curves. 1-2
Pattern 7645
A
5
Turn fabric strip to inside, baste, and press. Use the twin needle to topstitch 1⁄4" (0.7 cm) from neck edge, thereby catching the fabric strip (see also text and illustration for step 1).
Armhole edge / Fabric strip Fold fabric strip (piece 4) in half lengthwise, wrong side facing in. Press. = Trim allowance on each armhole edge to 3⁄8" (1 cm) wide.
6 Baste each strip to armhole edge, right sides facing. The open edges of strip lie on seam allowance of armhole edge. Stitch strips to armhole edges, stitching 3⁄8" (1 cm) from edges. Trim seam allowances and clip curves.
7 Press fabric strips toward armholes and press allowances toward body of top. B Finish neck edge with fabric strip (piece 7) as described and illustrated for steps 4 and 5. Finish armhole edges with fabric strips (piece 8) as described and illustrated for steps 6 and 7.
AB Side seams
8 Lay front piece on back piece, right sides facing. Baste side seams, matching seam numbers (2). Stitch. Finish edges of allowances and press seams open. 9 Turn strips on armhole edges to inside, baste, and press. Use twin needle to topstitch 1⁄4" (0.7 cm) from armhole edges, thereby catching fabric strips (see also text and illustration for step 1). Illustrations 8 and 9 show view A. Hem
J Finish lower edge of top. Turn hem allowance to inside, baste, and press. Use twin needle to topstitch 11⁄2" (3.5 cm) from fold edge, thereby catching the hem.
2-2
